15 April was our last day in Vienna and we visited the Belvedere Palaces, Upper and Lower, and the Winter Palace. The picture above on the left is of the Upper Belvedere Palace. It was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel and we soon knew why the palace is called the Upper Belvedere as we were continually walking up hill to get to it. Prince Eugene of Savoy (1663-1736), the most celebrated of the Habsburg generals due to his defeat of the Turks in 1683, had the palaces built in 1714-1723 by the architect Johann Lukas von Hildebrant as a summer residence with the money he received as a reward for his victories during the Spanish Succession. It was one of the most ambitious building projects ever undertaken by a private individual. The picture above on the right is of the entrance and one of the magnificent support statues in the palace known as the Sala Terrane. The palaces are now home to the Austrian National Gallery. We were in one of the rooms and I was taking pictures and was approached by a guard saying no pictures. We had not seen the sign as we entered into this side room. I apologised but did continue to sneak pictures as we were more interested in the palace rooms themselves as opposed to the art they housed. The picture below on the left is of the Marble Gallery. The one below on the right is of the French-style gardens that link the Upper and Lower Palaces taken from one of the rooms in the Upper Belvedere Palace. It appears that the guards did not care about pictures being taken of the outside from within the palace.
From the upper floor of the palace we got a fantastic view of Vienna and I spotted a green dome with gold crosses and peaks. Upon asking the guards what the building was, they were not able to tell us. We continued our exploring and then walked through the gardens making our way down to the Lower Belvedere. The gardens are in the French style with marble statues and a beautiful fountain a little more than halfway down the gardens. We stopped to take a number of photos and before entering the lower palace we treated ourselves to the most decadent ice-cream cones we have had in a while. I enjoyed an extremely rich chocolate cone while Fred had a hazelnut cone. One scoop was more than sufficient.
The Lower Belvedere only had a few rooms that showed its former splendour, such as The Hall of Grotesques and the Golden Room as pictured on the right, it is really an art gallery with pictures by famous artists such as Gustav Klimt. While we have enjoyed the palaces we are a bit disappointed as the rooms were not as opulent as we had expected. We did not know if this was due to deterioration over the centuries or damage during the war.
I was determined to locate the green dome we had seen from the Upper Belvedere as it looked very interesting and no one in either of the palaces could tell me what it was. We walked for a relatively short period and Fred finally spotted the dome down a side street just as we are about to give up. We walked a couple of streets over in a very quiet area and came upon the most beautiful church, a Russian Orthodox Cathedral. We took pictures but did not enter as there were men working on the outside and on stairwell of the church. The church is pictured below on the left.
We now headed off to the Winterpalais, but decided that lunch was in order as the palace was just 10 minutes away from our hotel. One cannot visit Vienna and not experience proper Weiner Schnitzel. Mine came with sweet potato chips. The chips were not what I was expecting but the schnitzel was delicious. We also shared an apple strudel which was warm and better than anything I have ever made.
Full and legs rested we now walked to our final site for the day the Winterpalais. Other than the spectacular stairwell the winterpalais was very plain and mainly an art gallery. We headed back to the hotel for some much needed rest before we headed out to a concert, our final event before preparing to head back to the UK.
The concert we attended was held in The Kursalon, built in the Italian Renaissance style between 1865-1867. It was here that Johann Strauss Jr earned his title as "Waltz King". The concert we attended celebrates the music of Strauss and Mozart with dance and opera singers.
The last two pictures on the left are of the chandelier that rotates slowly when the music is playing and the music hall. For me this has been the highlight of our celebration of Fred's birthday. We headed back to the hotel to have a light meal and drinks before heading to our room to pack.
The 16th we forgo breakfast at the hotel and headed to the airport. At the airport we checked the departures board for our gate and headed for what we thought was security. We scanned our boarding passes and walked directly into the duty free area. After that came passport control. At this point we were a bit concerned as we had not seen a security check. Our concerns were put to rest as the security check was right at the boarding gate. A great idea as you go through security at the time of your boarding call. We did come across a unique feature while we wondered around the airport, a smokers chamber or glass room with vents that were for those who smoke and cannot go without for a few hours.
Our flight back to the UK was non-eventful and clearing customs in the UK took forever as they had only agents on duty for Non EU passports. Once cleared we were on the road and home in a good four hours, a much better drive home than our drive down.
We hope you have enjoyed this blog stay tuned as we have a short trip planned in mid May .
Auf Wiedersehen,
Sandy & Fred