Saturday, April 30, 2011

April 20, 2011 - Ghent

Hoi All,

We arrived in Ghent early in the afternoon only to find the hotel parking is blocked off as a movie was being shot near the hotel.  We found a public parking garage near by and then checked into the hotel.  By the time we had settled into our room access to the hotel parking was now available so we decided to move the car as it was considerably cheaper.  Once that was completed we headed off to explore Ghent as we only had the one night here.

The foundations for Ghent were laid in the early 9th century when the first Count of Flanders  Baldwin Iron-Arm built the castle, Het Gravesteen, seen on the left to protect the two abbeys from Viking raids.  The old centre as it exists today was built during the 13th and 14th centuries when the city prospered as a result of the cloth trade.  The city continued to flourish during the 16th and early 17th centuries despite the many religious and political conflicts.  After 1648, the Dutch sealed off the Scheldt Estuary, closing off the canals that were vital to Ghent's trade, which led to a decline in the prominence of Ghent.  In the 19th century a boom in cotton spinning revitalized Ghent.

The old town was very easy to get around and we covered all the attractions in about three hours.  I was extremely disappointed in Ghent.  While picturesque with the buildings reflecting two very different types of architecture Gothic and Post Reformation styles I felt it has been ruined with the introduction of trams that run on electric power.  The power wires have been attached to the buildings so views of the historic buildings were obstructed by the wires.  I appreciate that having a clean environment is very important but you would have thought that a better solution could have been found.  I also think that our experience in Bruges tainted my expectations for Ghent.  I don't think that it has the character that Bruges has in my opinion.  So this city will be on the one and done list.

We stopped and enjoyed a drink in the Graslei before heading back to the hotel.  As I was starting to feel ill having not eaten lunch we decided to have a snack with our drink.  It turns out it was more of a meal although it was listed in the snack portion of the menu.  A ham/cheese sandwich covered in a spaghetti type sauce with a rocket salad.  Feeling much better we explored a bit more then headed back to the room to download pictures and  relax before having a late supper in the old town.  We headed back to the Graslei to search for a place to eat and it seems as though everyone had decided to eat late as the place was packed.  We ended up finding a small place on the Kortemunt.  We both started with shrimp croquettes that for me were so-so as they were too pasty rather than having chunks of shrimp in them.  Fred had steak and frites and I had the most amazing ever hot goat cheese salad.  I hope to be able to duplicate it when we get home.  Of course the meal was accompanied with a nice bottle of red wine.  The last photo is of St. Baafskathedraal.

Dag,

Sandy & Fred

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

April 18-19, 2011 - Luxembourg

Bonjour All,

Today we headed off to Luxembourg and our drive took us from The Netherlands (Holland) through Belgium and Germany into Luxembourg.  On this trip we get to add two countries to our list according to Fred but as we did not stay in Germany I don't think it is a legitimate addition. We drove along an area know as Petite Suisse Luxembourgoise.  The Ppcture on the right is of that area.  We think it is known as Petite Suisse due to the winding narrow roads.  As you can see the language of preference here is French although German is spoken.           
Our first real stop was Beaufort Castle (Beautiful Castle) in the valley of Haupeschbaach.  Archaeological findings date the oldest part of the castle to 1150 but it is suspected that even this part was built upon some pre-existing much older construction.  Built upon a massive rock it was an impressive building with towers one on each corner, a mountain at the back and water moat in front.  Around 1380 the castle was enlarged on the valley side with the water tower being added. Lastly, around 1500 a sidewing was added with its renaissance windows.

By way of background, in the middle ages as a member of lower nobility you had two career choices, that of a knight or a monk.  Castle or monastery was a decision made for them at a very early age.  As young as six you were shipped off to another noblemen for training which was usually a relative.   A rather harsh way of life in the middle ages.  If the monastery was chosen for you it was the dictates of the Benedictine Order, another rigid way of life with no personable freedom. 

But back to the castle, by 1639 it was already falling into disrepair when it was purchased by Governor Jean Baron de Beck.  In the early 18th century the owners of Beaufort moved out of the castle, staying at it only on an occasional basis and by the mid 18th century the castle's fall into rack and ruin began in earnest.  It was not until the 1928 that restoration work began on the castle which was now under the ownership of Mr Edmond Linckels and in 1932 it was re-opened to he public.  In 1981 the castle became a State Property.  You can check out our Flickr site or my facebook pictures to get a true feeling for the castle.

From here we traveled through the valley and into Luxembourg City itself.  Luxembourg dates as far back as 963 when Count Siegfried chose the Bock promontory to build his fortress which was to become, along with St Michael's Church the cradle of the city.  But I think I am getting a bit ahead of myself here.  We found the hotel and public parking and lugged our suitcase and other bags to the hotel.  We got settled into what is a very small room but clean and provides us with all we need and WiFi access was free, so a bonus.  After settling in we asked about parking and it turns out the hotel does have parking.  The clerk tell us it is 12 euros a night and suggests before moving the car that we check out how much it will cost where we had parked as it could be cheaper.  As it turns out it the hotel was considerably cheaper so we decided to move the car.  Getting out of the garage however was a bit of a challenge.  The machine would not accept the ticket and the gentleman that I found to help did not speak English and I could not understand him.  After some sign language of pointing, shoulder shrugging and arms in the air he assisted us.  We paid and escaped back to the hotel.  We then took a walk to get the lay of the land for tomorrows exploration. The area we are in seems a bit sketchy especially the restaurant choices.  However, we found a supermarket and decided to get some cheese, ham, apple, wine and a baguette for our supper.  The baguette was fresh out of the oven and our dessert was a chocolate filled croissant that was warm as well doesn't get any better then that.  A picnic in our room for a great price.

After a good nights sleep and breakfast we headed out to explore the city.  Walking to all the major attractions was very easy.  We stopped at the tourist information centre and the gentleman mapped out a walking tour for us that took in all the major sites in the old town which is what we were interested in. 
We had already passed some of the sites on our walk to the information centre and had taken pictures as it was early and car/pedestrian traffic was light car, which was good for me because I don't like people in my pictures unless I know you.  I know it's strange but that is me.  Fred on the other hand has no issues.

The historic centre which I started to tell you about is bound by cliffs that once made the city an easily defensible strong hold.  In 1443 the best engineers of the time turned the city into one of the most powerful placements in the world, called "The Gibraltar of the North".  The Casements is all that is left of the original fortress.  In 1867 after the declaration of neutrality the military withdrew and during the next 16 years 90% of the defenses were demolished.  It proved impossible, however, to blowup the casements without destroying parts of the city so it was sealed up.  Seventeen kilometers of the tunnel remain and we took time to explore this UNESCO world heritage site.  The tunnels are a amazing feat when you consider when they were built and the depth they go down to.  During the height of their time they provided shelter for soldiers, their horses and housed workshops, bakeries, kitchens and slaughterhouses.  As well as shelters for people during the world wars in case of air raids or shelling.

Before we know it our stomachs are telling us it is lunch time.  Fred spotted a pizzeria in the old section near the Palais Grand-Ducal.  We were spoiled here as they welcome you with a glass of prosecco and two slices of plain pizza.  We picked our pizzas, I had ham and mushroom and Fred had tomato and basil.  We split our pizza's so we each enjoy what the other has chosen.  We also had a half litre of house red wine to wash it all down.  The pizza was made in the traditional thin crust style that we so loved in Italy.  With lunch over we continued our exploration of the town.  We did not make it to the Kirchberg plateau as I was starting to fade and as we were walking I did not want to get there then struggle to get back to the hotel.  Back at the hotel we decided that since we had some cheese and meat left over from last night in the fridge that another baguette was in order with some wine as we had had such a great lunch.  At the supermarket I also spotted Limoncello at a great price so we picked up a couple of bottles to bring back home.  Well that is another country done.  Tomorrow it's back to Belguim and the city of Ghent.

Au revoir,

Sandy & Fred

Sunday, April 24, 2011

April 17, 2011 - The Bollenstreek

Hoi all,

Today we headed out to explore the Bollenstreek a 19 mile stretch between Haarlem and Leidem, which is Hollands primary bulb growing area.  Our first stop was Zandvoort, a seaside community.  It was dull and grey and we couldn't see very far out to sea.  From here we headed to De Zilk passing more colourful bulb fields as pictured on the right.  While going through the town we passed many beautiful homes with a lot having thatched roofs.  We saw a deer feeding off a tree but of course cannot stop as there were cars behind us.  The tour we took takes us along canals within the bulb fields.

There were canoes and kayaks on one canal, brave souls had cameras and were picture taking but what a great way to see the fields.  The drive took us along so many beautiful fields that you really need to look at our Flickr site or my face book as I have posted pictures already.  Fred is a bit slower loading pictures onto Flickr as he is waiting until we return to the UK as internet access is somewhat slow for uploading and as you know if you have a digital camera you take a load of shots well at least I do LOL!!  We went through a number of towns on our tour some seaside and all I cannot pronounce. But amazing sites in all.  Noordowijk Aan Zee a seaside town, Katwijk Aan Zee and Rijnsburg.  We saw some very large home in Rijnsburg again with thatched roofs something I would not have expected to see in a major town.  As we drove we came across a number of gardens that have been in a competition of sorts.  The picture at the right is amazing, it was of Garfield and made completely with flowers.

Our last stop was very near the Keukenhof that we visited yesterday.  We stopped at a roadside market and I picked up a couple of Amaryllis bulbs and a tomato kit.  It should prove interesting to see whether the tomatoes grow from seed, but since I've been in the UK I have developed a bit of a green thumb.  We have seen a number of flower hangings on our travels and they had some at this stop.  Oh to have such talent.

We have truly had an amazing time exploring the bulb fields and all my expectations have been met.  We hope you have enjoyed this section of our trip.



Dag All,

Sandy & Fred

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

April 16, 2011- Keukenhof Gardens

Hoi All,    

We headed off early to Keukenhof Gardens, very early and hoped to arrive around 9:30 a.m. as it is a 50 minute drive from the hotel.  The picture on the right is our first closeup of a bulb field, which is part of the Keukenhof Gardens.  We stopped to get our photo op and the aroma was intoxicating as we opened the car doors.  The field is a mixture of hyacinth, narcissus, daffodils and tulips.  The parking lot is already unbelievably busy and we are in the back lot and back entrance of the gardens.

The property was originally owned by Jacqueline of Bavaria and it bears little resemblance to the games park where she hunted outside of the castle.  She was born in 1402 and died at the age of 35 of tuberculosis.  After her death the property fell into the hands of wealthy merchants.  In 1949 the grower and exporters of flower bulbs held the first outdoor exhibition of spring flowers and from then it became a yearly event. Sections of the gardens are planted by bulb producers who compete for rewards and the recognition of their product.  The gardens cover 70 acres and is one of the most spectacular public gardens in the world.

Now I am sure we all equate the tulip with Holland, however, I found out that was not the case.  Tulips are native to Central Asia and the the Northern regions of the Himalaya Mountains where 60% of all wild tulips grow.  The first tulip was grown in Holland in 1594 (Cadus Cluios) in Mortus Leiden.  In 1637 three tulip bulbs would cost you 3600 Guilders or 13.60 Euros.  Rather expensive when you consider you could buy a house on the canal in Amsterdam for 4.50 Euros.

We spent four hours exploring the grounds and the various different sections taking in the beautiful smells and sites.  There were a number of restaurants, stalls in each section of the gardens serving up food.  The herring to the right did not looked cooked and seemed to be served raw or else they were pickled.  Either way Yuck!!  As we had had a big breakfast we had some mandarin oranges and cookies as a snack (queues for food were extremely long).  There was a petting zoo on the grounds and I finally get my first close up shot of a lamb. LOL.  I had to come all the way to Holland to get one!!
The windmill on the grounds was built in 1892 in Groningen and was used to regulate water levels in the polder.  In 1957 Holland American Lines bought the windmill and donated to the Gardens, it was fully restored in 2008.  We did not go into the mill as like most things in the park they charge extra and the queues were long.

By 1:00 p.m. you can't walk around as the crowds are massive.  Fred and I are definitely not crowd people and decided at 2:00 p.m. to head out.  There was a parade of floral floats that was to go by around 4:00 but given the hoards of people we decided to pass and we took the back roads back to the hotel.

We passed a few more bulb fields but saw mostly farmland with cows and sheep.  A very relaxing drive.

Dag all,

Sandy & Fred

Sunday, April 17, 2011

April 14-15, 2011 - On The Road Again

Greetings All,

We headed off  on Fred's 60th birthday to start our next adventure.  I did get some stick about making Fred drive on his birthday but he organized the trip so no worries.  We traveled a total of 268.3 miles in four and 1/2 hours and 5 gallons of diesel.  The trip was uneventful for the most part.  Sometime before London a piece of metal of some sort came off a vehicle and the car in front of us.  We were able to drive over it with no damage to our car.  The traffic was extremely heavy around and past London mostly due to road works.  Past London and near our cutoff there was a dog walking on the highway.  Thank god it got across the road and off to safety.  Our first night was spent in Maidstone in Kent County at the Marriott.  Once we had checked in we headed into an old stomping ground Lenham for lottery tickets (Euromillion jackpot was GBP 25 million) and a pint of Spitfire and 1/2 pint of cider at the Dog and Bear.  We celebrated Fred's birthday with dinner at the hotel and are given  20% off our meal.

Fred had a prawn cocktail, rib-eye peppercorn steak with sauteed potatoes, finishing off with coffee and drambue.  I had a chicken liver parfait, the most amazing pumpkin, pine nut pasta and finished with a medicore Irish coffee. This was of course all washed down with a bottle of Italian wine just can't remember the name.  The staff were attentive but did not hover which was very nice.

April 15th - We had a nice early start and are able to get on our channel crossing a half hour earlier than we had booked.  We did not have a passport check as no one was at the post where we were told to drive through.

The inconsistency of checking really bugs me.  Hopefully I will have no issues when we return.
We traveled a total of 235 miles through four countries in 4 hours.  The drive through France and Belgium is quite nice with hardly any traffic.  It was only real busy in the Netherlands around the bigger cities.  We arrived in Utrecht and got settled in.  The only bummer is our room.  Fred booked online and really did not look at what the regular room was so we have single beds.  Other than that, the room is quite nice with a desk and free WiFi and parking.  We decided to have supper in the hotel rather than going out as Fred had done enough driving for one day.  Timing is everything they say and we sure lucked out.  We were having our starter when two buses of seniors arrived for France.  Our waitress toll us they were expecting a third bus from Hungary as well so it would get quite chaotic.

Fred and I discussed the possibility of a bus trip and decided not until neither one of us can drive and probably then not.  We are really not good at being dictated to as to when or where to get going plus I don't think we are very social in that type of environment.  Hopefully we have at least 20 years before that becomes a concern.  We are also not sure at what age you are considered a senior.  Fred decided if you can get a decent discount because of your age you can be a senior LOL!! Hell we will take any discount we can to make our travels cheaper or have more availability.

Well that is all for now, tomorrow begins our adventure with a trip to the Bulb Fields and Keukenhof Gardens.

Dag,

Sandy & Fred